id 891784753046

Can you make a drill guide? Part of what makes it difficult is staying lined up do drill nicely perpendicular and not wander or tilt to egg the hole. Suppose you had a block of hard wood and drilled out a hole through it the size of the fitting. then drill into the side of the large hole a hole with the bit that you will drill out the set screw . Then drill two bolt holes alongside the large hole . Saw the block in half splitting the large hole and dividing the two bolt holes. Align the drill hole with the broken set screw. Place the other half of the block opposite and reassemble the block with two bolts. The guide should make it easier to stay centered and drill a neat round hole in the setscrew.
Комментарий от : @michaelwarlick4328

I would be surprised if One setscrew was by itself . Can it be that this setscrew was above a slot with a key in the slot? If you drill out the screw and the shaft will not turn , it could be splined , threaded , or keyed. Is it possible to contact the builder or the owner of the same model of boat ? if That setscrew is by itself , then the shaft might have a flat ground on it that the setscrew is dug into, or it is set into a hole. Once you have dug out enough screw to free the shaft it will be interesting to see what you find in there.
Комментарий от : @michaelwarlick4328

bluejeans725 nailed it exactly after the CRC /wd40 over night belt the crap out of it and it will come off or cut the shaft and put a whole new shaft in save a rethread also. doing well for little experience wish i was there to help. cheers from Aus.
Комментарий от : @crawfordwhite8549

Man where did you learn to work. I have seldom seen someone with ten thumbs. If i may it would be advisable to do your research before starting your repaires. And also see if you have the knowledge and the know how to do the work. Trying to do it yourself can be more expensive than hiring someone to do it.Know this if you fuck up and what you worked on goes out shit creak in a storm your are dead and you kill your girl friend.
I have seen many times people trying their best to do things and ending up costing three times as much.
I am a retired agricultural mechanic and have many times fixed other peoples mess. In your case it could be your life your playing with when out on the ocean in a storm. It would sadden me to know your are lost at sea because of a bad repair.
Be safe and do it right.
Have great day
Комментарий от : @pierregodin1668

I allways leave retapping for last...first thing i do is to hit the screw..or nut with a hammer...this will shake the thread some...and then apply heat with any sort of a torch...it works for me...cheers!
Комментарий от : @steven6692

You’ve turned a corner with your video production. The BOAB style is really coming out lately. I know it’s not been fun content to film, but the resulting videos have been some of your best yet, IMO. :) -B
Комментарий от : @Sailboatstory

There is a product called ez out. Check out Amazon. It is probably to late to use it now.
Комментарий от : @marthabillwilliams4323

Whenever we had an issue with removing screws while I was in the US Navy, we would break out a kit of easy outs. Plus if you damage the internal threads try using a helicoil instead of re-tapping the hole.
Комментарий от : @saltyshark2002

Your tenacity is incredible. I would be throwing things and cussing like a ........oh a sailor. Keep the faith and good luck!
Комментарий от : @roymurrayanderson7573

a little hint if you hit the puller on the bolt head where you have the wrench with a hammer once it is tight it usually helps to pop it loose
Комментарий от : @smblksuper

You Need a small propane torch and get the yellow bottle it burns hotter... You will be amazed at what a little heat can do to help get stuck bolts and other things out!!!
Комментарий от : @smblksuper

MMMMMM Bacon!!!!!!
Комментарий от : @smblksuper

Cut the shaft off it probably needs replacing
Комментарий от : @maxfulmer3193

Set screw 😃 would have used a small pipe wrench.
Or plan B - drill it out .
Комментарий от : @revans4774

vinegar is the best for rust and beestings,and om not bullshitting on this....
Комментарий от : @snorungar70

dont usually make a drama of my screws.....
Комментарий от : @snorungar70

drill perhaps use a reverse thread drill bit to pull extra metal out from the old screw. - I reamed a broken bolt out and was luckily able to rethread a new bolt after carefully cleaning out old bolt. Measure closely with the drill for depth as there maybe a small bevel on the shaft. Try the gear puller on the flange as well the old screw. You maybe be able to secure the shaft from spinning to with a rag and pipe wrench... I hope you get it free and clean...
Комментарий от : @JamesALodge

Use some cutting oil when drilling and your drills will last longer and cut better.
Комментарий от : @ronaldsummers7421

You guys deserve a much better boat. I am about to retire from sailing. I have an excellent boat for you. It is an all aluminum Colvin Gazelle gaff rig schooner that is in excellent condition with a new Westerbeke 42B Four engine. Please contact me at ron.lockhart77@gmail.com The boat is in southeast Florida (we have just come north from Key West; which you love, right!).
Комментарий от : @susanl435

it was pretty smart to turn it into a screw
Комментарий от : @misak2951

Everyone else is sailing around the Caribbean like "look how great my life is". BOAB is like "we removed a bolt this week!!!" I love it. This is my life too! I think you guys must be long lost relatives. Love the videos!
Комментарий от : @law_merica

:06 That's lazer beam concentration there.
Комментарий от : @matthewhaslam3219

completely drill out the set screw and retap the coupler to the next size.
Комментарий от : @joeyfoxhall4282

I'm an aircraft mechanic and boat owner for 30-years. If you HAVE to remove it: drill out the bolt, threads and all. Squirt penetrant into hole and tap-tap with a hammer around flange. Do this tap-tap over a few hours. Wipe up oil. Put a spacer in there like the restaurant guy said - a socket should work well and moderately tighten the flange bolts. Heat the coupling near the bolt hole 360 all the way around with the torch - you don't have to get it red hot - just enough to expand the coupling WITHOUT transferring heat to the shaft - so do it quickly. Transmission in reverse should help lock the shaft and then crank down on the flange bolts. Again, work quickly. If this does not work, then you're going to have to either cut the shaft or split the coupling (fore-aft) with an angle grander. In both of those cases, unfortunately, new shaft or coupling. Good luck and careful of bug-spray around a flame.
Комментарий от : @nickcaballero6556

As others have said drill out the set screw hole wider and make sure you get all the way down to the actual shaft and go into it a bit. The man at the bar had the best idea put a socket or something that will put pressure on the actual shaft when you tighten the 2 flanges together. You may have to get some longer threaded bolts for this process. Once you have some pressure on the actual shaft using the process just mentioned turn the shaft where the set screw hole is in the up position and put your penetrating oil into the hole and keep it there and keep it full for a few days then try and tighten the 2 flanges further together each day or so it will start to come off at a point but time is your friend when using penetrating oil. Also I have heard you mention you have acetone. If you combine 50 percent acetone and 50 percent automatic transmission oil it makes the best penetrating oil in the business. I have done shafts before not a newby.

Also I heard you guys say you had damaged the threads on the shaft. I have taken a file that is triangle in shape and repaired threads on a shaft taking my time etc and using the nut (serviceable nut) to make sure it will thread onto the shaft where I repaired it. You can also drill a small hole through the shaft (for small cotter pin) which would be behind the nut to keep the nut from being able to back off the shaft when at sea and save you from losing your prop. If their is a nearby machine shop they can also put in a lathe and repair your threads and make sure the shaft isn't out of true. You can also spin it on a level surface like a glass table to see if its true won't be as good as a machine shop but better than nothing especially since it doesn't spin as fast as a power boat.

I am also guessing you will be replacing the cutlass bearing you can take a sharp hack saw blade and put it through the cutlass bearing and cut it in half on the bottom side then in half on the top side and it will be easy to get it out then.

When I make my packing for the prop shaft or steering shaft I wrap the packing around the shaft 4 times and hold it tight with one hand at both ends then take a razor knife and cut all 4 wraps it in half using the razor knife that gives you 3 perfect circles for your packing. I also use marine grease and pack the packing with marine grease before re-assemble. You also have to adjust your packing by how many drips per second come into the boat on steering it doesn't need to drip as often if at all because a steering shaft is not spinning like a prop shaft is. A prop shaft needs to drip to keep the packing from overheating when the shaft is spinning.

I hope that helps!!
Комментарий от : @joesnuffy5978

build a water proof try around the shaft and fill it with coke...no not the white stuff... the drink and leave it for a day
Комментарий от : @sailingtheworld2021

Could it be counter dunk?
Комментарий от : @westsideratmarshall

Buy an impact screwdriver to help open rather than vice grips
Комментарий от : @westsideratmarshall

You guys have crossed the "this refit should have been done stateside" threshold. A lot of the work you're doing is deep and difficult and you're far away from abundant resources. But, what's done is done and now you're fully committed. You're doing great and I hope you can get it all back together.
Комментарий от : @ajax1137

Not knowing what you did or didn't do. This is my advice, when you have a fastener that will not loosen apply heat unit it is cherry red and then immediately try to turn it. Same applies to the stuck steering wheel and gear puller. One last tid-bit of advice. Use a product called Never Seize when putting parts back together. You will thank yourself the next time you take it apart.
Комментарий от : @rcorn8114

Unfortunately you have probably scored your shaft what you’re going to have to do is completely drill out the threads on the set screw on the collar once you’ve done that spray the oil in the whole put all the tension you can on the puller and then heat the collar with your torch this might take several attempts but it will come off. Or if you have an easyout you can put it in to the hole that you drilled and try to back the set screw out
Комментарий от : @bobomonkyboy

I am a millwrights you need to get some Kroil oil and heat up the Collar then spray the Kroil on it and let it sit when heated up it will expand and draw an oil in
Комментарий от : @bobomonkyboy

Yes drill it out right up to the very size of the original bolt, yea then tap it out oversized if need be.

Alway remember ““Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end. ” —John Lennon..”
Комментарий от : @dviolinman

Get yourselves a set of E-Z Outs....
Комментарий от : @windborne8795

While you have the bolts and coin on heat the flange as you rotate the prop shaft tapping the coupler in the direction it comes off. Seriously, you did the best anyone could do. It sucks, it happens.
Комментарий от : @johncano2594

why wouldnt you use heat from the start and use the vice grips the proper way... also when cutting a slit to use a flat head dont go as deep, use heat, and smack the top of the screw driver as you turn it.....
Комментарий от : @lml6.653

Doesn’t putting the transmission is gear keep the shaft from turning? Hopefully things will look better in the morning.
Комментарий от : @danielseefahrt5221

well guys if all of that heat and penetrating oil does not work, I would just try a small amount of plastic explosive, you dont want to use to much because you could have bigger problems:-))
Комментарий от : @brianchamber

Drill the bolt completely out with a drill bit a hair bigger.Drill it all the way out. Down into the shaft. You should have a nice smooth hole. Your shaft will come free. When reinstalling and you are using the old collar.....go buy a tap and dye set and make a new threaded hole with a new bolt to replace the old one.
Комментарий от : @frankmills5022

try using a screw driver or leaver bar in between the bolt head and the prop shaft. wedge it against a solid surface and they try to tighten the bolts
Комментарий от : @dragonback75

Michael you're like sort of famous now 😂😂😂 glad you're doing well!
Комментарий от : @tameghost

Kano KROIL Penetrating Oil, the absolute best in the business! I literally laugh my butt off watching your videos. You are both "Stars" in my book. While one shaft is a PITA to work on, try having two of everything to to contend with, from the throttle aft. Twice as much fun!

Now that you've drilled that set screw out, you need to get an extractor bit which screws into it, the reverse of the screws threads, so that when it bites into the remnants of the tap screw it backs that out as you screw into it. www.homedepot.com/p/Vermont-American-Carbon-Steel-Screw-Extractor-and-Drill-Bit-Set-with-5-Drill-Bits-and-5-Extractors-10-Piece-21829/202850653
Комментарий от : @georgedean8509

It`s to late, but when a set screw is stuck. Tap with a hammer a few times before you try to unscrew. After you broked it you weld a nut on the remaining screw and tap again when it`s hot, cold down with water and try ( next time)
NOW, make sure you have drill the screw to the key . Mike gave you a good advice but try that with nuts or bolt, tighten and tap on the flange while doing this until it broke loose, ( penetrant oil in that screw hole)
Комментарий от : @claud120

www.amazon.com/ATE-Tool-piece-Screw-Extractor/dp/B0002UJNWE/ref=sr_1_2?hvadid=243347483474&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9018218&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=9610166627400260398&hvtargid=kwd-375270181427&keywords=e-z+out&qid=1555255775&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Комментарий от : @donjennings2975

Use moly disulphide on drill bit and go slowly.
Комментарий от : @lynndonharnell422

I feel for you man! Measure the coupling thickness to determine how deep you need to drill. You want to avoid drilling into the key as this may just add friction to the coupling removal. If a machine shop is available Id borrow an "end mill bit" as it is flat on bottom. Do the yard boys have a set of torches? I am afraid even with the set screw out of the way you will need way more heat than the one you have. With your socket inside the coupling tighten up the bolts and start to apply heat. Shock the coupling with a large hammer. Recheck the bolt tightness if they loosen the shaft is moving. Good luck and thanks for the videos!
Комментарий от : @bradfordlunt1468

Have you tried yelling and swearing at the screw? If it doesn’t work you might feel better all the same.
Комментарий от : @Mahalo_83

Did you try bacon! Love it
Комментарий от : @bradfordlunt1468

Use heat as stated, and candle wax it will pull it in and soak up all that white corrosion goodness and help tremendously. Turn the bolt some them tighten it back up, then repeat. Maybe a hundred times. While applying heat. Hammer helps too. I grew up in the Florida keys and have a lot of frozen bolts to my name. A lot of broken bolts too lol.
Комментарий от : @brandenwaltz9879

If you can find a reverse drill set that work in reverse and keep drilling up in sizes you may get lucky with the heat of drilling it will loosen and drill itself out
And yes there is drills that work in reverse I've used myself for many years along with easy outs tools to remove broken bolts and screws look on YouTube
Hopefully this will help
Комментарий от : @gefforyoehm

Why are you taking the steering and prop shaft apart in the first place ?
Комментарий от : @davemis40

Use acetone mixed with automatic transmission fluid. In my previous life on ships at sea we used wintergreen to free up bolts. Just some old-timer solutions
Комментарий от : @barrythompson8858

At the start you need to use a acetylene torch! You have to get the metal red hot to expand then the bolt would come out easy! same with the prop.Make sure you use anti-seize putting things back together. I spent one day just talking out bolts putting it on the threads then putting them back in! Also if you put oil on bronze valves and such they wont turn green and will last awhile! And when using a puller tighten it really tight like you did then hit it with a good size hammer and the blow will bust it free!
Комментарий от : @theislandpackrat

use heat.
Комментарий от : @davehurst2543

You will need to drill the set screw out as it’s too late to do anything else. Make sure your drill bit is the same size as the set screw and dribble undiluted washing detergent on the drill bit as you are drilling....it keeps the drill bit cool and helps it cut....good luck
Комментарий от : @brzpicnic

www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUSuSn_QZmk
This tool is great for getting stuff loose. I use one all the time. You can put sockets on the end too. Impact driver
Комментарий от : @alphasxsignal

Impact driver would have been the thing to use from the start with a square socket
on it. Looks like you will have to drill it out and re tap the threads if you use it over.
Комментарий от : @alphasxsignal

Best video yet. Love the dream sequence.
Комментарий от : @barrybrogan305

Cut your shaft and get a new one easier
Комментарий от : @johncollins5021

Sorry, dont shit can old shaft. Take to the machine shop so they can duplicate it. Both pieces after cut so they get it made correct.
Комментарий от : @jimposey8848

Cut the old shaft at flange behind engine and pull it out through stuffing box then shit can it. Get a new shaft made. You can properly dill out set screw on flange once out of the boat bilge. Re Tap flange to larger size set screw.
Комментарий от : @jimposey8848

You should've used the torch to begin with before you break/ strip out whatever your trying to turn. Heat it up glowing red then quench it with water. Then try turning if it still wont go simply repeat multiple times until it does. I've been able to get any car part off including old brake lines on cars in Michigan to come loose. Sometimes it takes 8-9 times until it will come loose but the thermal cycling will get the rust to let loose eventually.

For the prop shaft I've learned the hard way you want to leave the nut on but loose around the end of the threads that the puller is going to push on to prevent them from getting destroyed. Look at it this way on your next boat you'll know exactly how to do everything and it'll all be smooth sailing! lol
Комментарий от : @appick01

With regards to the set screw, you need to drill the full diameter of the set screw. If you do not, the remaining portion with continue to hold things in place. You can drill it over sized and then tap it later for a larger set screw. After you have it totally drilled out, fill it up with penetrating oil a few times a day for a couple of day. Then apply pressure as you are doing.
Комментарий от : @joeswartz8255

It is a little late for this tip, but you will have it for the next stubborn bolt/screw. The secret if it does not break free loosening it, it to tighten it a little bit. Then loosen the bolt/screw. There are times that you may have to tighten and loosen repeatedly. And each time it will loosen more and more.
Комментарий от : @joeswartz8255

Man you guys are not having a load of luck with those fittings but old boats tend to be a challenge. Not sure what to suggest really. Heat is only any good if it is a lot of it quickly to one part to expand it and break the seal. Are you sure you drilled all the set screw out? Maybe go one drill size bigger, after all you can get it tapped for a bigger set screw after it is off which will make the job easier in future. The other alternative is to draw the shaft out from inside but that means moving the engine out the way. Maybe that would be easier? I wish you luck and I wish I was closer to lend a hand. Andy UK
Комментарий от : @AndyUK-Corrival

That's about as much frustration as a human can stand! If there is no key between the shaft and coupling, then the shaft torque may have distorted the end of the screw where it meets the shaft, which would jam it in place. So as the others have said, keep drilling bigger till it gives up. Greg
Комментарий от : @tamaralee4108

Heat
Комментарий от : @theottovanpagel

Usually prop shafts have a keeper nut on them to hold the shaft key in its slot. Take the coupling apart then look at the end of the shaft.
Комментарий от : @retiredfederalie178

Don't you hate it when a tiny screw kicks your ass.
Iv done the multi grip thing, turning into a screw thing, but always end up drilling it out.
I couldn't see, did the boatyard boys use the gear puller on the shaft without the nut on the end?
If so, naughty naughty.
Комментарий от : @966Mako

If you have not drilled over size the tip of the set screw is probably still in the shear line, between the coupler and the shaft. At this point you may consider an oversized hole to clear the shear line. Also you maybe able to jam the shaft by placing a pipe wrench on the coupler while jacking the screw on the gear puller. Good luck.
Комментарий от : @acklan3

So good to see that you got some time to go play have an awesome day hope you get that stubborn bolt out:-) peace out
Комментарий от : @quest2outdoors

Are you allowed to say "flanges apart" on the internet?
Комментарий от : @markjennings2315

I really like what your videos have become, they are unlike any sailing channel I watch and that's probably why I keep watching. You are some very special and creative people, I hope you keep entertaining us for years to come.
Комментарий от : @drzombie2215

Time to break out the hot wrench.
Комментарий от : @Mullay2

You need to drill that bad set screw out, and that is the end of it. The alternative is to use 4" cutoff wheels in a grinder, and slit the coupler on two sides, effectively splitting it into two pieces. That is extreme, difficult, and unnecessary. Part one: get new drills, Part two; stainless steel is a very tough material - it will overheat and destroy the temper of your drill bits, unless you go slow, and have a nice container of cold water next to you, and about every ten to twelve seconds, dip the drill bit in it to cool it off. Also, use a lubricant - motor oil is best, WD40 is okay. Every time you cool the bit, lube it. You must be absolutely steady while drilling. A little wiggle or shudder on your part, will break and chip the leading edge of the drill bit. If you are doing it right, you will see good chips coming up out of the hole. Keep cleaning them away, and use a rag to clear the drill bit. This may sound like a lot of work, but I am a marine mechanic, and have drilled out dozens of those screws, from little, to huge. You have to develop a seriously good skill with a drill bit and drill motor, and all of a sudden, when you see it working, it will make you smile. Drill the entire screw out, even increasing the divot in the shaft. When it is done, and you get the coupler off, you will need to get the next size up for a set screw, and a tap of the right thread, and tap out the hole you've made in the coupler. Easy-peasy.
Комментарий от : @writertaylorleecooper9357

Great music choices, dreaming of sailing was beautifully hilarious. Video wins "Best Frustrating Mechanical Moments" award.
Комментарий от : @garyrahn2172

Would an "easy out" work? You could soak it real well, apply some heat and try the easy out in the bolt you drilled out.
Комментарий от : @billroberts9182

Admiring your persistence. Lots of comments say keep drilling until you have removed all of the set-bolt, then tap tap tap all around gently with a hammer and maybe the vibration will loosen it. You have to drill away all of the bolt, probably even the threads. You'll have to tap the hole for a larger bolt or drill a new hole and tap for the same sized bolt. Put a few wraps of teflon tape (normally for plumbing pipes) around it so it doesn't stick next time. Don't you wish the threads were lined with teflon this time? Another good product is Boeshield T-9, they sell it on Amazon. It was developed by the Boeing airplane company to spray on wiring connectors and any other parts of their planes that they didn't want to corrode. Its like WD-40 on steroids. Probably not so good as a penetrating oil, but great to put on things before assembling them to prevent corrosion later.
Комментарий от : @ninehundreddollarluxuryyac5958

-BE-CAREFUL about using PB blaster-it eats rubber, watch for adjacent areas and over spray. (I won't even have the stuff on my boat).
-The thingy on the backside of the shaft (inside) is not the cutlass bearing, it's a drip-less shaft seal and they usually have o-rings and rubber a sleeve, absolute %100 avoid getting PB Blaster on it, the attached hose is for water cooling, recommend you google PSS drip-less shaft seal and down load instructions on maintenance and reinstall. I would recommend inspecting parts closely for wear or degradation in the rubber, replace if necessary. also those parts have, the two silver disks/coupling have a matting surface, mark them and reinstall the same way. Inspect hose clamps.....
-Before you go with too much force with your friends 'coin' suggestion (which is a great approach) make sure that set screw is drill out completely tighten real tight but not insanely tight, if you strip a bolt in that forward couple your live is going to get much more complicated, heat soak and shock via tapping the coupling, then tighten a little more. I had to reattach the couplings together, reinstall my prop and workout the shaft with a block of wood and hammer by tapping on the prop hub, it may not have been the best idea as you don't want to damage bearings in the engine, but it worked. I'd go with your fiends suggestion first.
-Dream sequence was a hoot.
Комментарий от : @raynic1173

dont heat the screw, that makes it bigger. heat the surrounding metal to make that expand away from the screw.
Комментарий от : @xdawpax

4" cutting wheel. Cut the coupling along the keyway so as not to damage the shaft too badly and replace the coupling. Or cut the shaft and replace both. Don't forget to replace the cutlass bearing when you get the shaft out
Комментарий от : @lyingsocks5686

Keep going guys. As we say over here in good old Blighty, "keep your chin up".
Комментарий от : @jzledwards01

get out a bigger bit and keep going , your not going to mess up the prop shaft more then already is. plus that shaft is hardend steel stronger then stainless so dont be scared :)
Комментарий от : @vspyro372

You have plenty of good suggestions and I am confident you will sort it, the only advice I would give is be careful '' It's a jungle out there''..!!!
Комментарий от : @Zeb1432

hi drill it out more then it will come of
Комментарий от : @gregworkshop5713

Keep doing what you're doing just add heat to the flange
Комментарий от : @davidkilgore9212

Over drill the set screw, then re tap it. A larger set screw would not be a bad thing.
Комментарий от : @boschme

I have some PB Blaster if you want to borrow it. Not a lot, but it might be enough.
Also, I've heard recently about some guys using brake fluid. I've got some of that, too.
PM me on FB if you want to try either one.
Комментарий от : @AndrewDanielson1

Hey don't use coins hahahahhahaha. Use a socket from your socket wrench. 3/4" should work

Also worst case u cut the coupler off. Like a cast. And buy new coupler.
Комментарий от : @leejohnnelson

can u weld another nut on the set screw?
Комментарий от : @doughoward6938

If it’s not broken don’t fix it. I’m still learning myself 🍺
Комментарий от : @stevebolszewski

drill the set screw with a drill the size of the inner diameter of the set screw or closest ..
a dimple on the shaft should not be an issue go deep or go home:) ...what is the cost of a shaft ? as it is buggered a bit now ? RNR> reck and replace) what is the cost of the 1/2 coupler ... just saw(angle grinder a slot clean thru it to shaft) the bad half off it looks east to replace....
Комментарий от : @thedonnn01

I got to give you guys a lot of credit you are taking on some really horrible tough jobs that in a boat yard the workers resist doing you guys are bad to the bone well done
Комментарий от : @dapoppa2256

These type of issues when disassembling something all really vary case by case, but as you have learned, the important thing is to try not to destroy the bolt if possible in the first instance, because once you do that the best and quickest thing to do is, to cut it off flush and punch it in the centre to give you an accurate drilling point and then drill it out using the smallest bit you have and keep progressing upwards in size, until you can either get it out having broken it free or over drill and re-tapping it to a larger size.

When you face this in future perhaps you might try the following instead, repeatedly soak it a long in advance as possible in the penetrating oil, days in advance if possible, then hit it from above using a tight fitting socket and extension bar to protect the head while shocking it to hopefully break it free, then use the socket with the longest bar you can get on it to try turning it to break it loose, even with a steel tube slipped over the bar to further extend it even more and give you even more leverage, it doesn't need to be able to make a full rotation, just apply the maximum force in any position to break it free from the threads, then you can change to a shorter bar to back it out.

Applying heat can help in some circumstances like to melting locktite or something similar, but heat on its own causes expansion which often just makes it tighter, you need to apply alternating heat and cold or ice water to shock it free, but that too has risks of causing damage too depending on the metals.

Regards Dave
Комментарий от : @Dvseire

if that screw is threadlocked in heat is the only option in my experience. I recently twisted a spiral in a 3mm hex/allen key because of threadlock on a setscrew, a micro blowtorch
(5-6mm wide flame @1300 Celsius) was the only solution for the tiny hollow grub screw I had to remove, you may find a gas soldering iron with a similar flame. It smoked as the threadlock burned out, do wear a respirator as the fumes aren't nice. I didn't need the metal to be red hot just hot enough to burn the locking compound. Look forwards to more of your vids.
Комментарий от : @philmcglass450

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